Denim silhouettes are constantly evolving, and I get a lot of questions about pant styles, hem lengths, and which shoes work best with different cuts. In this post, we’ll break down the different jean styles and hemlines, along with some of the more ambiguous terms you might come across when shopping online.
And if you’re unsure about rise, inseam, or leg opening—or how to measure them—be sure to check out my post on How to Shop for Jeans Online: Denim Measurements and Fabric Composition.
Decoding Denim & Pants: Styles, Hem Lengths & Fit Explained
Straight Leg Jeans
AG Mari Slim Straight Leg Jeans (29) // adidas Spezial (8) // rib turtleneck (S) // faux leather puffer vest
Straight-leg jeans have a consistent width from hip to hem, creating a clean, balanced silhouette. Depending on the cut, they can range from sleek and slim-fitting to relaxed and slouchy.
Slim straight jeans fit closer to the body, offering a streamlined look without being as snug as skinny jeans. On women with fuller legs, they may resemble a skinny fit. Examples include the AG Mari and MOTHER Dazzler. More relaxed straight-leg styles have a looser fit through the leg and sometimes even lean into a baggier look, such as the AGOLDE Harper.
For a traditional fit, straight-leg jeans should be hemmed just below the ankle, right before your foot begins. However, we’re now seeing more relaxed straight-leg styles, some even puddling slightly on the floor for a slouchier look. And, of course, cropped and ankle-length versions are still popular. Ultimately, all lengths work—it just depends on the look you’re going for.
One caveat: The hem of your jeans should NEVER hit the widest part of your calf. If you’re wearing cropped jeans, aim for a spot where your leg is beginning to narrow. This can vary depending on your height and leg shape, so play around with different lengths to see what flatters you best.
Bootcut Jeans
MOTHER Weekend Bootcut Jeans (29) // Nation LTD blouse (S) // Dolce Vita pumps (8)
Bootcut jeans are fitted through the thighs and flare out slightly from knee to hem. They come in crop, ankle, and full-length styles, making them a versatile choice. This silhouette is often considered universally flattering, especially for balancing out a top-heavy (inverted triangle) figure or larger hips (hourglass and pear-shaped bodies).
For full-length bootcut jeans, proper hemming is key—ideally, they should hit ¼” to ½” above the floor with the shoes you plan to wear. That said, many women are wearing them slightly shorter these days. As long as they’re not dragging, they should be fine. And when worn with heels, bootcut jeans can make your legs look a mile long.
Pistola Lennon Boot Crop Jeans (29) // Z Supply jacket (S) // Nation LTD muscle tee (M) // VEJA Esplar (39)
Cropped and ankle-length bootcut jeans—sometimes called demi-boot, crop bootcut, or kick crop jeans—offer a more relaxed vibe. They’re a great way to show off your shoes and don’t require hemming for different heel heights, making them an easier, fuss-free option.
Flares
Pistola Kinsley Flare (29) // LOFT Bubble Hem Jacket (S) // FRAME V-Neck Tee (XS) // Paul Green Hadley Platform Sneakers (8)
Flares are essentially a more dramatic version of bootcut jeans. They fit straight through the hips and thighs, then flare out from the knee to the hem, with leg openings typically wider than 20 inches.
Like other denim styles, flares come in cropped, ankle, and full-length versions. The difference between a crop flare and a crop bootcut can be subtle, with some flares having a more exaggerated opening than others.
Wide Leg Jeans
PAIGE Anessa (29) // Paul Green Hadley (8) // similar crop trench // stripe sweater (S)
Wide-leg jeans fit just as they sound—full with no tapering. Some have a straighter silhouette, while others flare slightly from hip to hem. They come in cropped, ankle, and full-length styles, offering a range of looks from relaxed to polished.
This silhouette can be a bit tricky to style, but when done right, it has a refined, sophisticated feel that sets it apart from more fitted denim cuts. Full-length wide-leg jeans often create an elongating effect, especially when paired with heels, while cropped versions offer a more relaxed, fashion-forward vibe that works well with everything from sneakers to ankle boots.
They’re also one of the most on-trend styles right now, making them a great choice if you’re looking to refresh your denim wardrobe.
Boyfriend Jeans
rag & bone Dre
Boyfriend jeans are designed to have that slouchy, “borrowed from the boys” vibe. They feature a relaxed fit through the hips and thighs with a slight taper toward the hem, typically sitting at a low rise. They’re often worn cuffed and usually come in cropped or ankle-length styles.
While boyfriend jeans aren’t at the forefront of denim trends right now, they’re still a great option if they fit your personal style.
Skinny Jeans
AG Legging Ankle Jeans
Skinny jeans fit close to the body, following the shape of the leg from hip to hem. They come in cropped, ankle, and full-length styles, but they’re generally most flattering when the hem falls right around the ankle bone.
While they’ve taken a backseat to wider-leg styles in recent years, skinny jeans are slowly making their way back into the fashion conversation. Their sleek, streamlined fit remains a go-to for those who love a polished look, and one of their biggest advantages is versatility—since they sit close to the leg, they work effortlessly with a variety of shoe styles without needing different lengths for different footwear.
Capris & Pedal Pushers
photo credit: Nordstrom
Fun fact: The term capri pants comes from the Italian isle of Capri, where the style gained popularity in the late 1950s and early ’60s.
These days, capris are often just another name for crop pants, but the term has become associated with frumpier styles that hit at the widest part of the calf—which is never a flattering choice.
Whatever you call them, the key to making cropped pants look intentional is where they hit on your leg. The most flattering length is usually a couple of inches above the ankle bone, where the leg starts to narrow. (The example above? Not ideal!)
What About Pedal Pushers?
photo credit: Old Navy
Originally designed for cyclists who needed mobility, pedal pushers are longer than Bermuda shorts but shorter than crop pants—usually hitting just below the knee or mid-calf.
When fitted close to the thigh, they can actually be more flattering than Bermuda shorts, creating a streamlined look. Though typically a spring/summer style, you’ll also see wider-leg variations pop up from time to time.
A Few Other Mentions…
Girlfriend jeans are a slightly slimmer take on boyfriend jeans—still slouchy but not as relaxed through the hip and thigh. They usually have a mid-rise for a more tailored yet casual fit.
Mom jeans are an ‘80s throwback style featuring a super high rise, relaxed fit through the thigh, and tapered legs. While they started as an ironic trend among younger generations, they’ve evolved into a mainstream silhouette embraced for its vintage-inspired, casual-cool aesthetic.
Barrel jeans are a variation of straight-leg jeans, typically featuring a high waist, wide cut, and tapered legs. They’re usually cropped or ankle-length and offer a structured, fashion-forward look.
Balloon jeans are similar to barrel jeans but have an even more pronounced curved leg—fitted at the waist with exaggerated volume through the thighs before tapering toward the ankle. Another nod to ‘80s denim, they create a bold, sculptural shape.
Cigarette jeans sit between straight-leg and skinny jeans. They have a slim, straight fit with a small leg opening, typically ankle-length with a mid-rise.
Stovepipe jeans are essentially another version of cigarette jeans, sometimes called pencil pants. The silhouette is long, lean, and straight—similar to a pencil, a cigarette, or a stovepipe.
Trouser jeans are wide-leg jeans with tailored details like pleats, back welt pockets, front patch pockets, paper-bag waistbands, or built-in belting, giving them a more polished, pant-like appearance.
Curvy fit refers to the cut, not the style. Any jean silhouette (flare, boyfriend, skinny, straight, etc.) can come in a curvy fit, designed for women with a significant waist-to-hip ratio. If you typically struggle with gaping at the waist when jeans fit in the hips and thighs, curvy fits can offer a more proportional fit.
And that just about covers all the major pant categories! If you have any questions, drop them in the comments
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