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I landed at bustling Malpensa airport early in the morning, and before I even knew it, I was seated on a high-speed train bound for Florence. Within a couple of hours I arrived in the heart of Tuscany’s capital city, but I didn’t linger long. I was en route to an exclusive, customization experience at perfumery Aquaflor on Florence’s Borgo Santa Croce. My appointment was booked through the concierge service of The Mall Firenze, a luxury program at the upscale Italian outlets that can transform an ordinary trip into something curated and personal. Their team can organize private cars, local tours, or bespoke experiences like mine at Aquaflor.
Walking into Aquaflor felt like stepping through a portal into a quieter, bygone time. The founder, Mauro Arena, is a devoted lover of art and craftsmanship, and he envisioned a house of perfumery inspired by ideals of beauty and uniqueness, where handmade scents using rare ingredients are housed in antique cabinets and old-fashioned bottles. Upon entering, I was greeted by a perfumer specialist and brought into the cellar laboratory where we explored the raw materials, the story of Florence’s tradition of perfumery, and then began discussions on crafting my own scent. I was led to a mezzanine level overlooking the shop where I was to formulate my personal fragrance while being guided step by step, selecting accords, and combining them to create a 100 ml Eau de Parfum. Easy enough (or so I thought)!
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- Aquaflor
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- The Cellar Laboratory at Aquaflor
We discussed how fragrances are structured: the top notes are the bright, volatile opening scents (think: citrus) which make the first impression but fade quickly. The middle or heart notes form the emotional core of the perfume (florals and spices, generally) and carry the character for a few hours. Finally, the base notes are the deep woods or resins that anchor the scent, give longevity, and linger long after the top has evaporated. My top notes were bright and sharp, a mix of bergamot and orange. For the heart, I chose rose, orange blossom, and cloves, something elegant but with a bit of an edge. The base came together with sandalwood and amber, which I found soft but enduring. We mixed and tested, layering and refining until the perfume felt like me. Watching the process was hypnotic, a delicate touch and go between art and chemistry. Although admittedly, also a tad overwhelming with all the possibilities.
What struck me most about the experience was how the process of creating fashion and fragrance appears to overlap. At Aquaflor, the act of developing a scent reminded me of designing a capsule collection: the top, heart and base notes are like components of a wardrobe, each necessary and each working together to form a cohesive whole. After the perfumer worked his magic by spinning the fragrance in its beaker, diluting it, and adding alcohol, he finally sealed the bottle. Although a wonderful souvenir, it felt more like a secret I could carry home. I even got a light scolding from him for photographing my keepsake notebook containing my olfactory pyramid and the perfume’s unique formulation!
That afternoon, I departed Florence for the Tuscan countryside, bound for Viesca Toscana, one of the Ferragamo family’s private estates and the sister property to Il Borro. Once a Renaissance residence, the estate was acquired by Salvatore and Wanda Ferragamo in 1952 as their family’s weekend retreat. Today, it has been thoughtfully restored into a collection of elegant villas and suites, each radiating a quiet, timeless beauty. I arrived just before sunset, when the light softened over the rolling hills and settled delicately on the cypress-lined perimeter. A faint haze lingered through the valley, casting a certain type of romanticism specific to this region. The bedroom of my suite overlooked the Tuscan fields, framed by an arched window that seemed designed for this very view. Waiting inside were the kinds of personal gestures that define hospitality: a handwritten note from Vittoria Ferragamo herself and a bottle of Il Borro wine.
After freshening up, I made my way to dinner at the estate’s restaurant, also named Il Borro, where the menu read like a love letter to Tuscany. I lingered over handmade pasta with butter and sage, drizzled with olive oil pressed from the estate’s own trees, and sipped a perfectly aged Chianti, just what I needed after a full day of travel. The following morning unfolded slowly, as mornings in Tuscany should. Breakfast of a pot of tea, fruit, freshly baked pastries and eggs was served in my room’s dining area. Afterwards, I wandered the estate grounds with a member of the Ferragamo family, past an orchard of cherry trees, eventually reaching the villa once home to Mrs. Ferragamo. Charmingly, it remains an intimate reflection of her taste: frescoed ceilings, grand fireplaces, and furnishings preserved from her time there. In an inspiring show of resourcefulness, she had curtains and pillows made from excess Ferragamo fabrics, practicing “sustainability” long before it was championed in the fashion industry. A woman truly ahead of her time, it appears.
Later that morning, I took a car to The Mall Firenze for what can only be described as retail temptation of the highest order. The Mall is set among a backdrop of Tuscan hills, a paradoxically serene environment considering all the frenzy surrounding the shops for the most coveted brands in the world. Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Loro Piana, and Fendi line the open-air walkways. It feels more like a luxury village than an outlet, thankfully. I moved from boutique to boutique, and only stopped for a quick lunch at ToscaNino Bottega & Restaurant, where I had, yet again, a generous helping of pasta and a glass of white wine while my shopping bags were quietly gathered for me at the concierge. By the time I left, my credit card had certainly felt the effects, though I told myself it was all in the name of research. I am an editor and this was work, after all!
Later that afternoon, I took the train back to Milan. When I arrived, fashion week was already in full swing. I was at my first event of the week, with LaDoubleJ, where I was surrounded by models, tastemakers, and founder JJ Martin when I caught the faintest trace of my new Aquaflor perfume on my wrist. Citrus first, then the warmth of spice and wood. It was a quiet reminder of Florence, the hills outside my window at Viesca, and the luxury of slowing down while mindlessly browsing The Mall. Italy has a way of folding beauty into everything it does. This trip, though brief, felt like a study in balance: fragrance, fashion, and the kind of understated elegance that lingers long after the moment has passed. And believe me, I’ve got the credit card bill to prove it!
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- ToscaNino at The Mall Firenze
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- The Mall Firenze
Images: Courtesy and instagram.com/elizabethkurpis