The first thing I ever did with my pubic hair was shave it and this remained my only form of pubic hair grooming until my late twenties. Our generation grew up with the beauty ideal of hairless bodies, super-low-rise denim, laser hair treatments and Carrie Bradshaw’s Brazilian. Today, the norm remains hairlessness when it comes to women’s bodies, however, pubes are slowly beginning to infiltrate pop culture. You could spot (fake) pubes on Margiela’s runway last year, on the main character of the movie Poor Things, and in Doja Cat’s Grammy look by Dilara Fındıkoğlu (real ones, this time). Meanwhile TikTok users have been praising the full bush and arguing that those people who have them are more trustworthy.
If all this discourse is sparking your interest in growing your pubic hair you might have some questions. After spending so much time removing it, what are the best ways to grow and care for your pubes?
PERSEVERE THROUGH THE AWKWARD, IN-BETWEEN PHASE
“I see lots of teenagers in my clinic, most of them have either shaved or waxed at very young ages,” says consultant obstetrician and gynaecologist Shazia Malik. “If you’re always shaving, your [pubic] skin gets used to that.” Much like bangs or bobs, bushes go through an awkward four to six-week grow-out phase (depending on your previous hair removal method, hormones and more). When re-growing your bush, Dr Malik says to “be patient, it won’t grow overnight. And look after the skin underneath.” At first, you might get in-grown hairs, or feel itchy or sweaty around your vulva. Exfoliation helps, as does wearing loose bottoms from natural textiles. Growing back your bush “can be a big emotional change too,” admits Dr Malik, as you reacquaint yourself with the look and feel of pubes you might’ve shaved since puberty. Dr Malik suggests growing your hair “gradually [for example, by starting with a strip], so you feel comfortable with it.”
Merkins by Pablo Kuemin10 Images
LAY OFF THE SHAMPOO
Pubic hair is often criticised as “unhygienic,” especially in the comment section of pro-pubic hair posts. This misconception encourages many to reach for shampoo, perfumed wipes or intimate deodorant to keep their newly-grown bush clean. “But it isn’t an abnormal or dirty thing. Pubic hair helps your vagina stay cleaner,” says Dr Malik. “It protects the opening of your vagina” from dirt, germs and other organisms. According to Dr Malik, it also keeps your intimate skin “lubricated, covered and prevents friction during sex.” When cleaning your pubes, Dr Malik recommends a tailored routine for your vagina, vulva and its surrounding area. “The vagina is self-cleaning,” she says. “You don’t need to douche, use any fancy products like glitter bombs or even wash inside.” When washing your inner and outer lips, “only use lukewarm water.” Lastly, “you can use a [skin] cleansing product on the mons,” where the bush mostly grows. And don’t forget about (the hair on) your butt. You don’t have to look for a pube-specific cleanser, as long as the formula is “PH-balanced, microbiome-friendly, unscented and moisturising.”
USE NATURAL OR FULL-BODY PRODUCTS INSTEAD
Next up – if you follow the average beauty routine – is nourishing. When Laura Schubert and Lillian Tung developed Fur Oil, specifically for pubic hair, they considered “the interaction of hair, skin and your clothing,” a combination that didn’t exist before. Tung says: “We made sure it’s quick-absorbing so you don’t feel greasy. We also [steered away] from a strong fragrance because we didn’t want to perfume or mask anything.” Instead, Fur’s tailored pubic hair formulas rely on natural oils and extracts (clary sage, tea tree, chamomile) to soften pubic skin and hair while addressing common pube issues like in-growns, bumps and sensitivity. “It’s best to stick to gentle, alcohol-free products with no masking fragrances that are dermatologically and gynaecologically tested,” notes Tung.
For those who favour skinimalism, Dr Malik says certain full-body products can also be safe to use. Look for naturally sourced, clean compositions “and go for organic if you can afford it.” As for the stuff you should never put on your bush, “stay away from anything that contains multiple chemicals, alcohol, perfume – as well as retinol or peels.” True to her profession, Dr Malik is pragmatic. “We have pubic hair for a reason, it’s not just decorative,” she states. Then, she pauses and adds, excitedly: “Well, you could use it as decoration.” Ah, welcome to the wonderful world of pubic hairstyling! As body parts go, the bush is one of the most dynamic and intimate, making it an ideal playground for self-expression. Granted you respect the boundaries of vaginal and vulval health, few pube style choices will incite long-lasting regret. I mean, have you ever complained of a bad bush day?
GET CREATIVE
If you need inspiration, look no further than last autumn’s exhibition, Motherland, which spotlighted pubes in all their creative glory: braided, dyed, bedazzled, trimmed, slicked-back, styled with a pink hair tie and googly eyes. If those styles are too far out or unattainable (Dr Malik shudders at the idea of people dyeing their bushes at home – although you could ask an experienced stylist to dye it for you, at your own risk), trimming, braiding and slicking still provide much room for DIY creativity. In touch with the zeitgeist, Fur recently launched a pubic hair-proof pomade, which “shapes hair with a natural blend of butters and waxes,” explains Tung. “You can use it for its conditioning benefits, to smooth and tame your hair, or to craft unique designs.”
WHAT ABOUT TRIMMING
The pubes on a natural 70s bush grow up to 5cm and can extend onto your thighs and below the belly button (again, this differs from person to person). Although coarser than head hair, natural pubes can range from very curly to wavy, from ginger to black, grey or somewhere in between. It can be exciting to figure out what yours look like, untouched.
If you choose to trim, Dr Malik says to stay away from laser treatment, multi-purpose razors and hair removal creams, which can all damage the vulva. Instead, “hair trimmers are great and hygienic,” she adds. They’re also easy to manoeuvre styling-wise (ideal for copying that SATC episode where Samantha rocked a lightning bolt, or the G-shaped pubes in Mario Testino’s controversial Gucci ad) and, with an adjustable comb, you can trim (parts of) your pubes to a certain length or very close to the skin. Professional waxing, epilators, merkins (like the ones on Margiela’s runway), tiny combs and colourful hair elastics or hair clips can all be vulva-friendly, exciting styling tools, too. Whatever your choice, Dr Malik concludes that, just like hair removal “the most important thing is that you’re doing it for you, and no one else.”