In a world where TikTok and other social media platforms exist, there is no shortage of different hair treatments circulating that your favorite influencer swears by to help with hair loss, repair damage or nourish dry ends. From rosemary treatments to rice water and peptides, the amount of options out there that can potentially help our hair are endless. And while some of these really do work, it’s hard to know what and who you can trust, especially when it comes to “new” treatments and products. That’s why when in doubt, we love turning to ancient practices that have been around for centuries to treat our hair. One of these ancient hair treatments? Hair oiling. Here, we get into exactly what hair oiling is, the benefits of the practice and how you can try it for your hair type—with tips from a hair expert, of course.
What is hair oiling?
You may have tried a few different hair oils on your mane, but what exactly is the practice of hair oiling? According to trichologist and founder of Colour Collective Kerry Yates, hair oiling is “a common Ayurvedic practice that has found its way to the masses. It is the act of massaging oil into the scalp and then taking it through to the mid-lengths and ends. The practice will use a mix of natural oils focusing on reconditioning the hair and providing aromatherapy benefits.”
There isn’t just one specific oil you’re “supposed” to use for hair oiling. There are dozens of different natural oils out there that can help target different hair and scalp concerns, so hair oiling can be truly customizable to your specific hair type and texture.
The benefits of hair oiling
So, why give hair oiling a go? The benefits of hair oiling span far and wide, but mainly help those with a dry scalp and/or damaged ends, Yates tells us. More specifically, hair oiling helps to replenish lost natural oils, she says, similar to how using a moisturizer on your skin can help replenish lost moisture your skin may be lacking.
Further, hair oiling “improves hair suppleness, which in turn limits hair brittleness and breakage,” shares Yates. Hair suppleness refers to how flexible, durable and soft your strands are. If your strands are highly supple, they will be able to bend, be brushed, etc. without breaking.
As far as our mid-lengths to ends, hair oiling can help add shine and recondition. This is especially beneficial for those with dry, damaged ends that need extra nourishment. When our hair is damaged, it often looks dull and lackluster, which hair oiling can help combat. Plus, it improves hair texture, improving slip and detangling,” adds Yates.
When it comes to our scalp, hair oiling “assists in controlling dandruff” as well as “decreases scalp tightness,” says Yates. You may notice a drier scalp and more flaking in the winter, which can make hair oiling a great practice for the colder months.
Does hair oiling help with hair loss?
While some oils have been proven to help regrow hair like rosemary oil, Yates doesn’t typically turn to hair oiling to address hair loss. “My preference is not to use hair oiling to solve hair loss,” she affirms. But, she does like that hair oiling involves massaging of the scalp: “However, with that said, I think the act of massaging the scalp helps to alleviate tightness and will help promote optimal scalp health. Good scalp health leads to proper follicle fitness, which is ideal for maintaining gorgeous locks.”
Which hair types should and shouldn’t try hair oiling?
Like pretty much any hair treatment, hair oiling isn’t one-size-fits-all, aka it won’t work for everyone. As mentioned previously, hair oiling is great mainly for those with a dry scalp and damaged ends. Yates says those with curly hair can usually benefit from hair oiling as they tend to have more fragile and dry hair. Straight and wavy hair can also potentially benefit as long as their strands are on the coarser side: “This hair type can do anything and (can) use a heavier oil from mid-lengths to ends. For super damaged hair, apply oil first, then cover it with an intensive mask. You will want to rinse the product out of the hair before styling,” says Yates. For those with medium texture and wavy hair, Yates says to “adjust the oil application level and location depending on the dryness level.”
On the other hand, if you have fine and/or oily hair, you should be wary of hair oiling. “Hair oiling is not ideal for all hair types. Anyone with an oily scalp or fine hair should avoid the practice of hair oiling,” advises Yates. Since oily scalps already struggle with an excess production of oil, you don’t necessarily want to add more oil onto your scalp, which can clog you’re already sebum-filled hair follicles. If you do want to try it, “Limit to the ends only and apply a light amount of oil or deep conditioning mask,” says Yates. “Do not use on the roots and/or limit use on the mid-lengths. This hair type can struggle with volume; excess oil can make it look limp.”
Overall, no matter your hair type, don’t overdo it. “Consumers tend to overuse thinking if a little is good, a lot is good. This thinking will lead to clogged follicles, leading to hair loss if prolonged,” warns Yates.
Have you tried hair oiling?
Best oils for hair oiling
Again, there are dozens of different oils out there to help many hair concerns. However, there are a few Yates specifically recommends trying:
For the scalp: Bhringaraj and castor oil
“I will use a blend of Bhringaraj and a carrier oil like castor oil for the scalp,” says Yates. “Bhringaraj oil is a multi-purpose ingredient offering both antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits.” Anti-inflammatories are great for flakiness and dandruff on the scalp. Castor oil is one of the most well-known and -used hair oils, as some believe it helps with hair growth (although there is little scientific evidence to support that claim) and it also helps moisturize and nourish mid-lengths to ends. One we like is Kitsch Organic Cold-Pressed Castor Oil.
For mid-lengths to ends: Nut/flower oils
To apply on mid-lengths to ends, Yates turns to nut/flower oils. Some of her favorites include:
- Monoi oil: “First, it smells incredible,” boasts Yates. “Most importantly, it helps to tame frizz and temporarily repairs split ends. Its superpower is improving hair’s suppleness and overall condition without weighing the hair down.”
- Tamanu oil: Yates says tamanu oil is essentially a superhero for your hair. She says it’s “like next-level argan [oil] but without all the weight. [It] returns hair to its youthful appearance, improving condition, feel and shine—brilliant partner with styling agents to separate and define curls.”
- Coconut oil: Good old-fashioned coconut oil can do wonders for our hair. “When applied to wet hair, coconut oil can help detangle hair, preventing breakage,” explains Yates. Plus, “Coconut oil instantly improves hair’s manageability, suppleness and shine. The perfect partner for hair oiling treatments!”
How to do hair oiling
While there are a few ways to do hair oiling, like just massaging your chosen oil into your scalp and down your ends, Yates actually prefers doing hot oil treatments when hair oiling. “I suggest heating your oil mix and creating a hot oil treatment to be massaged into the scalp [and left on] for at least 30 minutes,” she says. “The best way to massage the scalp without causing tangles is to start along the hairline and massage the back. Be sure to focus on the crown area.”
When you’ve tackled the scalp and are ready to apply the oil to mid-lengths and ends, follow these tips: “When tackling mid-lengths and ends, always apply from the top down, following the direction of the cuticle layer vs. going against the direction of the cuticle layer. If you go against the cuticle direction, you are, in essence, roughing the cuticle up,” advises Yates. “Hair will look flat/lackluster when the cuticle is rough. In addition, roughing up the cuticle can expose the hair to styling and friction damage.”
After the 30 minutes is up, shampoo and rinse the oil treatment oil. You want to focus on thoroughly shampooing the scalp, making sure you don’t leave behind any oil residue. “You do not need to shampoo mid-lengths and ends aggressively since the oiling process is designed to improve hair condition/suppleness.”
Tip: Yates recommends doing hair oiling on dry hair as wet hair can limit penetration. And as far as how often to do the treatment she advises doing hair oiling no more than once a week.