Castles, Lochs, & City Charm: Scotland Trip Recap | Jo-Lynne Shane

Ironically, the weather felt quite similar to Iceland, and we learned the next day that the similarities go even deeper. Like Iceland, much of Scotland was shaped by ancient volcanic activity, which explains the dramatic cliffs and rocky landscapes. In fact, Edinburgh is built on volcanic hills, making the castle’s location a perfect natural fortress. I found that connection between our two destinations really fascinating… but I’m getting ahead of myself!

We spent a few minutes settling into our hotel, The Balmoral. It was the perfect spot for our stay in Edinburgh, with its iconic clock tower and uniquely Scottish charm (bellhops in kilts and all). I absolutely loved it. The atmosphere struck the ideal balance between old-world elegance and modern amenities, and everyone was so warm and friendly that it never felt stuffy or intimidating. And our room was spacious and welcoming, a real treat after some of the smaller hotels in Iceland.

This was the view out our window… I mean!

We didn’t have much unplanned time in Edinburgh, so we set out right away to see the John Knox House—one of the stops on Paul’s bucket list. Edinburgh was noticeably more crowded than Reykjavík, which took some getting used to. It’s also a much larger city, of course, but I loved the energy of it. What can I say? I’m a city girl at heart.

That evening, we came back to The Balmoral and enjoyed a pre-dinner drink and a Scottish smoked salmon appetizer in their elegant whisky bar, aptly named SCOTCH. Afterwards, we had dinner at Brasserie Prince, also in the hotel, which combines fresh Scottish produce with classic French cooking. It’s also where they serve an extensive European breakfast buffet each morning, and we definitely took full advantage of that!

Day 2: Tour of Royal Edinburgh

We were up bright and early the next day for a Royal Edinburgh tour with our guide, Simon, who was a wealth of knowledge. We walked the Royal Mile and visited Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, stopping at significant landmarks along the way, like the historic Tron Kirk and Scott Monument. Happily, the weather was much nicer than it had been the previous afternoon, with blue skies and sunshine.

Edinburgh Castle was packed when we arrived, so this quick snap as we walked in was the best I could do!

But the view of Edinburgh from the Argyle Battery at the Castle was incredible; you can see the whole city. We just hung out up there for a while, taking in the scenery.

After our tour with Simon, we explored Holyrood Palace on our own with the audio guide and then wandered through some shops as we made our way back up The Royal Mile to our hotel.

I was on the hunt for a scarf (or honestly, anything) in one of my family tartans. Since mine aren’t as common as some, it took a while, but I finally found a shop where I could place an order. They had a swatch book, so I got to see the patterns, even though I haven’t seen the actual scarves yet. I did manage to find a necktie in my dad’s mother’s clan tartan at the Urquhart Castle gift shop… so I guess you know what he’s getting for Christmas!

We had a little bit of time that afternoon before our whisky tour, so we decided to treat ourselves to the Scottish Afternoon Tea under the glass dome of Palm Court at The Balmoral. That was a fun experience, especially since it was Paul’s first proper high tea.

After that, we walked up the Royal Mile to The Scotch Whisky Experience, which was interesting. It was definitely more Paul’s thing than mine, but I enjoyed it.

Since we had to be up and out of the hotel early the next morning, we took a leisurely walk back and turned in early. And that was the end of our whirlwind Edinburgh tour! I definitely could have stayed longer. In fact, I wish we’d planned an extra day, but live and learn.

Day 3: Kelpies & Stirling Castle

Even though I wasn’t ready to leave Edinburgh behind, I was excited to finally see the Highlands and the sweeping landscapes I’d read so much about. The next morning, we met our guide, Andy, who would be with us for the next several days.

From there, we began the drive to the Isle of Eriska near Oban, where we would stay for the next three nights. It was nice to be settled in one hotel for a stretch, though it meant longer drives out to the different places we wanted to explore in the Highlands.

On the way, we stopped to see The Kelpies — the world’s largest horse sculptures. I hadn’t known much about them beforehand, but they were truly impressive. Standing 100 feet tall, they’re made of steel to represent the area’s industrial past, while the horses themselves pay tribute to the Clydesdales that once worked the canals and fields of the region.

Then we toured Stirling Castle, which has been restored to look much as it might have in the 1500s during the reign of the Stewart kings. After seeing castles that are still in use today, it was really interesting to walk through one that had been re-created to reflect its original purpose.

They even had guides in period dress who interacted with visitors and demonstrated medieval games, music, and other aspects of daily life. Unlike Holyroodhouse, where so much is roped off, Stirling felt more immersive—we were even able to sit in the king and queen’s chairs in the great hall.

Once again, the castle’s hilltop location provided gorgeous views of the surrounding countryside.

We spent the rest of the afternoon making our way up to Oban and Isle of Eriska, stopping along the way to spend a few minutes at the Balquidder Parish Kirk and the ruins and burial plots on the site.

We checked into Isle of Eriska later that afternoon. It’s located on the edge of the Highlands, so it made a great branching-off point to visit some of the area sights over the next few days. It’s also a destination in its own right, with hiking trails, a spa, a golf course, and even resident wildlife like badgers and seals.

The grounds are beautiful and peaceful, with plenty of spots to wander or simply sit and take in the views, but we didn’t have much time to enjoy them since we were on the go most of the time. We at dinner there our first night, and took advantage of their breakfast each morning.

Day 4: Highlands – Glencoe & Harry Potter Train

We met Andy the next day and set out for the Highlands, making our first stop at the Highland Soap Company. It’s the cutest little gift shop, and they also serve tea and coffee, so we each grabbed a cup and I picked up a few gifts before we continued on our way.

Then we made our way to a Harry Potter film location, where we joined about a hundred other tourists to watch the ‘Hogwarts Express’ steam train cross the world-famous Glenfinnan Viaduct. It was amusing to see everyone lined up in the field with cameras poised to capture the moment. (You can book tickets to ride the train, but our guide said they often sell out more than a year in advance.)

That area also gave us the chance to hike around the loch, and we walked down to the water to see the Glenfinnan Monument overlooking Loch Shiel. It was built in 1815 as a tribute to the Highlanders who fought and died in the 1745 Jacobite Rising. It was such a peaceful spot to sit for a while and take in the views, with the sound of the wind and the water gently lapping against the shore. (You can climb the monument, but we decided to pass.)

We grabbed lunch at the Visitor Centre in Glencoe (a fruit scone with clotted cream and jam for me!) and then walked over to see the model Turf House. The 10-minute video here is well worth the time. It really brings to life the sobering history of the area, including the Jacobite uprising and the massacre of the MacDonald clan.

From there, we continued driving up into Glencoe and stopped at the Three Sisters. The views were incredible there—steep mountains rising on either side with a few waterfalls running down the slopes. We didn’t do a hike, but we stayed for a while at the pull-off spot to take some pictures and just take it all in.

After that, we headed back to Oban, the small coastal town not far from where we were staying at Isle of Eriska. We grabbed drinks with Andy at a local pub (The Oban Inn), and that was a cultural experience! Everyone shares tables, and you just plop yourself wherever you see an empty chair. Two locals moved over and made room for us, and we chatted with them as we enjoyed our drinks.

Then we said good-bye to Andy, and we walked over to Cuan Mor for dinner, which was casual pub-fare. It was a nice break from the fancier spots where we’d been eating. We also ended up chatting with the couple beside us, who were also traveling the region, so that was fun.

Day 5: Highlands – Loch Ness & Urqhart Castle

The next day was probably my favorite—although it’s hard to choose just one, but I loved the drive to Inverness, which took us along the lochs that feed into Loch Ness. After the rugged hills, mountains, and sheep we’d seen the day before in Glencoe, the water views were absolutely mesmerizing. And then the views from Urquhart Castle… but I’m getting ahead of myself.

We were supposed to do a cruse of Loch Ness, but it was too windy, and it was canceled, so we stopped along the way to see Invermoriston Falls.

The day started out rainy and windy, but by the time we reached Urquhart Castle, the skies had cleared and the sun was shining, and the views from the bluffs were absolutely breathtaking. Before exploring the ruins, we watched the short introductory video, which is definitely worth it. I won’t give anything away, but the way it ends and leads you out into the castle grounds is such a cool experience.

After the castle tour, we started making our way back to Oban to be there in time for our distillery tour. I was a little sad we didn’t make it all the way to Inverness, which I’ve heard is beautiful. It’s also where we’ve traced my maternal grandmother’s family back to the early 1600s. Still, I was glad we got to see the region, and I hope someday we can return to explore Inverness, the Isle of Skye, and more of the north.

That evening we met up with Andy again at The Oban Inn after our distillery tour. It turned out to be even more fun than the night before since we ended up chatting with some fellow travelers. We wrapped up the night with a lovely dinner at Coast. (Highly recommend!)

Day 6: Loch Lomand & Glasgow Tour

The next thing I knew, it was time to leave the Highlands. On the drive back down to Glasgow, we stopped to see St. Conan’s Kirk, a historic church on Loch Awe, and one more pretty little waterfall—after Iceland, they all seemed “little” by comparison!

Our final stop in the Highlands was the charming village of Luss, on the banks of Loch Lomond. It reminded me a lot of the Cotswolds. I can hardly believe people actually live and work in such a quaint little place. We toured the old church and then wandered down along the waterfront before walking back up into the village, enjoying the stone cottages, flower boxes, and narrow lanes.

We got to Glasgow in time for a late lunch at a fun little German brew pub, West Brewery, and then swung by the address we have for my dad’s mother from when she lived there. (She came to the U.S. when she was 7.) The original building has been replaced, but the street is still there, so I took some photos of the neighboring row houses that probably looked much like the one she lived in.

From there, we headed over for a quick tour of Glasgow Cathedral and walked up to the Necropolis for views of the city. We also made a quick stop at Celtic Park (home of the Celtic Football Club) so I could pick up a gift at the Celtic FC Superstore, before checking into our final hotel in Scotland—the Kimpton Blythswood Square.

We absolutely loved this hotel, and I only wish we’d had at least one more night there. It’s the perfect blend of modern and historic, with service that was outstanding but not stuffy.

The bar was really cool, too. We had a drink and shared an order of their focaccia before walking through town to dinner at Swadish, an Indian restaurant Andy had recommended. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but it turned out to be one of my favorite meals of the trip—I’ll be dreaming about those prawns for days.

We decided to walk the mile back to our hotel rather than take a cab, and it was fun to see the nightlife in Glasgow coming to life. With college back in session, the streets were full of students out and about. It was a great way to take in the atmosphere and walk off a few of those dinner calories.

And that’s a wrap on our whirlwind tour of Scotland! There are still places I’d love to see, and I could have happily spent more time in Edinburgh, but overall I feel like we got a great taste of the country. It was especially cool to find my grandmother’s street in Glasgow and to see the Highlands, where some of my mom’s ancestors once lived. I don’t know if Scotland will be at the top of my list to revisit, but you never know… I can definitely see myself coming back to explore Inverness and the Isle of Skye someday.