“Hali-Facts” — Halifax, Nova Scotia is the most wonderful summer destination! Maritime Canadians are oh so friendly, and the walkable waterfront, markets and historic sites warmed my heart… Being here made me feel as if I were back in the glorious 1990s.
In my previous blog post, I took you along on my road trip to Nova Scotian historic attractions and museums.
This time, I’ll highlight the intriguing history, art and culture sites found in the capital — such as Halifax Public Gardens above. I’ll also give my recommendations for the best restaurants in the province, from creative tasting menus to down-home seafood. (All photos by Joey Wong).
On the Halifax waterfront: can you tell I’m loving it here! Four km of wooden boardwalk overlooking the ocean, peppered with Canadian flags, restaurant patios and artisan markets… Nova Scotia’s capital city is a vibe.
So glad I’m focusing on Canadian travel and finally made a summer trip to explore Nova Scotia museums, historic sites and culture.
To see footage of me exploring Halifax’s top museums and historic landmarks, watch my IG video here!
I had never been to the Canadian Maritimes, and was delighted to kick back on a purple Adirondack chair to people-watch at the working port.
One of Canada’s oldest cities (est 1749), Halifax has many cultural attractions within walking distance of the gorgeous harbour.
My “fueled by microplastics and spite” bag by Mourning Breath Shoppe got so many compliments and is 100% me (as well as 100% cotton). Doing my best to wear natural materials, minimize plastics and get the word out on the horrors of nano and microplastics these days!
You can take a boat tour out on these sparkling waves for views of lighthouses and Georges Island National Historic Site. This green mound of an isle within Halifax Harbour was an 18th century military fortification.
Under the sea… I dove into Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, which covers everything from ocean explorers to the province’s role in the Titanic ship rescue operations.
This “kawaii” cute playground outside the museum sets the tone for the informative yet fun exhibits inside, which focus on oceanic events that shaped the province’s history.
With over 30,000 artifacts, this is Canada’s largest and oldest maritime museum.
Looks like this pirate ship is about to be attacked by Cthulhu! Arrr, I’d invite the Lovecraftian Old God to join my pirate crew.
Halifax is connected to the Titanic shipwreck because it was the primary base of recovery, and home to the world’s largest number of Titanic graves (many victims are buried at Fairview Lawn Cemetery).
Posing on Queen’s Landing, the steps at Queen’s Marque (a mixed-use public space by the water).
Watch my short video here to see me playfully exploring Halifax’s museums and seawall.
An outfit change to shoot in Halifax Public Gardens with photographer Joey Wong. I’m inadvertently channeling Mira from Kpop Demon Hunters / Huntrix. (Fit check for my napalm era…)
Founded in 1838, these Halifax gardens are a study in Victorian elegance: a classic bandstand, flower gardens and a fairytale bridge over a brook.
I’m wearing a red silk Chinese halter qipao or cheungsam by Beth and Brian Qipao. 100% mulberry silk over synthetics, always! My leather silver skull bag is Alexander McQueen.
Halifax was founded on June 21, 1749 by the British, hence the influence of Victorian-era architecture like these wrought iron entrance gates.
The gardens are a popular spot for wedding, graduation and prom photos for obvious reasons!
Onward to Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, Atlantic Canada’s largest art museum — set in this fetching Italianate downtown building.
The Art Gallery mainly features Nova Scotian works, such as by folk artist Maud Lewis (you might be familiar with her bright, colorful and charming paintings of animals such as cats).
Another must: Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, which celebrates the country’s diversity and Halifax’s history as the port of entry for a million people around WWII.
I was a fan of The Old Burying Ground, est 1749. These tombstones, some of which have old-time skull carvings, are giving Goth.
Now we’re going up, up, up to Halifax Citadel, the hilltop fort founded by the British in 1749.
Originally named Fort George after King George III, this impressive national historic site overlooks the harbour and is shaped like a star. Climb up and walk around the top of the walls to see cannons.
Standing on guard for thee — uniformed and marching Canadian soldiers.
Learn about the military history of Halifax and see collections from the past at the Army Museum.
It felt like stepping back in time as you make your way around Halifax Citadel’s fortifications.
Now, let’s focus on food! I was excited to try Nova Scotian cuisine as I’d heard so much about the fresh seafood and Acadian dishes.
The food scene turned out to be spectacular — so let me give you a rundown of my favorite places to eat in Halifax and other locations around the province. (Watch my Instagram @lacarmina reel for an overview of everywhere we dined in NS.)
Halifax has a lovely fine dining scene, especially downtown and by the water. You can’t go wrong with an Aperol spritz at the counter of Italian restaurant Pazzo Ristorante & Enoteca.
The two-floor restaurant is set in a gilded heritage building — talk about putting on the ritz.
Indulge in the creamy burrata, and get the pesto made right at the table (it doesn’t get fresher than this). Pazzo also has the most delectable tiramisu in Halifax, as you can tell from the photo, so save room for it!
For food, wine, fire — Tribute Restaurant is perhaps the most creative fine dining spot in the city. Or rather, “fun dining” — the experience is laid-back and full of Maritime Canadian hospitality.
Halifax chef Colin Bebbington plays with Nova Scotia seasonal ingredients such as halibut, interacting with guests from the open kitchen.
The wine pairings are wonderful with his beautifully plated dishes that pull from a variety of influences, such as a family lasagna recipe from the time he spent cooking in Bologna, Italy.
The live fire and charcoal add impact to the ever-changing dishes.
Cheers to Tribute for a chef’s tasting menu to remember!
I was keen to sink my teeth into Nova Scotia’s famous, affordable seafood — and found several favorites. Evan’s Seafood (at Alderney Landing across the bridge from Halifax in Dartmouth) doles out local-caught haddock, crab, scallops, lobster and more at excellent prices.
When Joey and I drove to Peggy’s Cove, we made sure to factor in a stop at Shaw’s Landing…
I mean, these pan-fried Digby scallops speak for themselves!
Watch my IG reel of all the food I ate in Nova Scotia for footage from Shaw’s Landing and other eateries.
The lobster roll, lobster chowder, fish and chips and more were sensational.
It’s well worth the trip to West Dover / Peggy’s Cove for authentic Maritime food from fishing communities.
One of my favorite moments from the trip was connecting with Chef Pamela Leonforde, proprietor of Café Caye Mangé in Yarmouth.
As photographer Joey Wong wrote: “La Carmina and I are always on the lookout for interesting food, and while we were in Yarmouth, Carmina discovered her cafe. She was so impressed by the quality, uniqueness, and Pam’s warmth that she brought me the next day to try more dishes and learn about Pamela’s journey and what inspired her to open a Caribbean plant-based spot in tiny Yarmouth.”
“It was so inspiring to hear how passionate Chef Pamela is about bringing healthy food to the community. During our chat, she told us her cafe is the only one of its kind outside of Halifax, and she often welcomes visitors from all over especially Americans arriving by ferry. Beyond running the cafe, Pamela also gives public talks to promote healthy cooking and nutrition, and she collaborates with the Black Loyalist Heritage Centre. It was a wonderful encounter with another ‘come-from-away’ who has made Nova Scotia her home.”
In an area of Nova Scotia that mainly serves hearty and fried food, I was delighted to dine on healthy, homemade meals (all vegan and made with natural ingredients, with many gluten-free options) at the peaceful Café Caye Mangé. Please come visit Chef Pamela and say hi for me — her rotating desserts and Caribbean black bean burger are a must-try!
We also adored The Emerald Light Kitchen + Bar in Shelburne, a chill waterfront town still untouched by mass tourism. We sat in the back patio of this picturesque green house to dine on flavorful local food made with care. Start with cocktails made from ingredients like strawberries and craft liquor by local Boatskeg Distilling Co.
We had a hard time choosing what to order as everything on the menu sounded so good! The garlic shrimp po’boy, Annapolis Blomidon brie salad, and seared scallops and shrimp (with sweet and spicy chorizo jam, cherry tomato, mixed greens, pickled red onion) were full of flavor and made from healthy, quality ingredients — as you can tell from the colors of the spread.
Still thinking about The Emerald Light’s signature tomato soup and grilled cheese… This restaurant in Shelburne is a total gem.
Nova Scotia has a rich Acadian history, so we were keen to try these distinct French settler dishes at La Cuisine Robicheau in Saulnierville. Tip: you can order a taste of rappie pie, a gelatinous potato dish with clam or chicken, for just a few bucks.
Hot creamed lobster, pan fried haddock with lemon, and Nova Scotian white wines served in a homey space — what a heart-warming Acadian meal.
Finally, make your way to Wolfville wine country for stand-out cuisine at Juniper Food + Wine. Chef Geoff Hopgood sources ingredients from small Nova Scotian producers and pairs his beautiful, seasonal dishes with Canadian natural wines. (Had to get my scallops fix, gently seasoned and served with edible leaves and flowers.)
Juniper’s menu changes with the seasons and includes mouth-watering creations like baked potato beignets topped with bacon, sour cream, chives and smoked cheddar.
For more tips, watch my IG reel about all the food we tasted (and where we stayed) in Nova Scotia. You can also see my video about Halifax historic sites here.
Did you know the province has such a rich culture and culinary scene? Cheers to Visit Nova Scotia and HMI Creator Coast for making these travels possible.
PS – If you’re planning to visit Nova Scotia, here’s some inspiration for an itinerary. Read my previous blog post about my road trip to Annapolis, Yarmouth, Wolfville, Shelburne, Birchtown and other historic places in the province.