When most people hear the word “heritage” in relation to watches, they think of Switzerland—but the best Seiko watches show why real heads know not to discount Japan. The first name holding it down for Japanese heritage and craftsmanship, Seiko got its start around the same time most of its Swiss counterparts did, at the end of the 1800s. But its defining moment was one that shook the entire industry to its core. That was 1969, when the brand launched the world’s first battery-powered wristwatch, terrifying the Swiss and kickstarting the “Quartz Crisis.”
But let’s be honest: If you were a guy who wanted a great timekeeping device but didn’t want to spend thousands of dollars, this was really the “Quartz Revolution.” Seiko’s pioneering tech laid the foundation for brands like Swatch and Timex to arrive, getting more watches on more wrists, which ultimately helped the industry. Seiko’s innovation forced the old school watchmakers to innovate also, and at the end of the day, everybody won.
And we’re still winning today. In the years since, Seiko’s designs have become enmeshed in popular culture, and wearing a Seiko has become a taste signifier for the “IYKYK” crowd. The coolest watch bro you know probably names the Seiko 5 as one of his all time favorites. And there’s something powerfully irreverent about a rich guy choosing a Seiko over, say, a Patek. When the world is your oyster and you choose a Seiko, you’re saying “cool” does not equate to how much money you spend. You either got it or you don’t, and if you got it like that, rocking a Seiko shows you’ve got nothing left to prove. Below, the nine models that define the brand today.
The Best Seiko Watches, According to GQ
Seiko SRPG37
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Seiko Seiko 5 Heritage
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The Best Seiko Watch: Seiko 5
If there’s one Seiko watch to own, it’s the Seiko 5. (Actually, maybe you should own five of them.) Initially launched in the ‘60s, the number 5 was used to connote its 5 defining attributes: an automatic movement, a day/date display, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case durable enough for daily wear. 50 years later, the Seiko 5 has been released in literally hundreds of variations (some more of the best are below), but this one is close to the classique. And you don’t mess with a classic!
The Best Seiko Field Watch: Seiko SRPG37
This more outdoorsy take on the Seiko 5 is your one-way ticket for the prep train that’s just pulled into the fashion station. Military-inspired, it has a cool, vintage feel, without veering too nerdy. Sporty and versatile, it’s just the piece you need to direct your jeans and T-shirt look in a more free-spirited, Americana direction.
The Best Vintage-Inspired Seiko: Seiko 5 Heritage
At first glance, this version of the Seiko 5 might not seem out of the ordinary. But subtle details— like the more esoteric case shape, or the retro-feeling enlarged lume plots—turn things up just enough to mark this out as a future cult classic, and a current favorite, I’ve observed, of watch guys on Reddit. And no one does better research than watch guys on Reddit.
The Best Seiko Dive Watch: SEIKO SRPK31K1
I am an absolute sucker for a dive watch. Bonus points if it’s a Seiko dive watch. One of the most coveted pieces in my personal collection is a Seiko diver from the ‘80s. And while this piece isn’t it, it still possesses much of the aloof cool that mine does. And simply, it’s just fun to wear a watch that you know can really get wet.
The Best Seiko Dress Watch: Seiko Presage Classic
Okay, so we can’t exclusively wear sports watches. Sometimes, you gotta dress up a bit—and I’m of the opinion that you shouldn’t wear a dive watch with your suit. Enter the Seiko Presage Classic, whose multi-link polished bracelet brings to mind a Rolex Datejust, and creates an almost jewelry-like effect. This is appropriate for our times, when guys like Timothée Chalamet are wearing tiny bracelet watches for their red carpet cameos. Be like Timmy. Choose the Presage.
The Best Seiko Chronograph: Seiko Prospex Chrono
The Seiko Prospex Chronograph is decidedly more of a “watch guy” choice, simply by virtue of the fact that it’s equipped with a tool-oriented complication (i.e. Anything on a watch that tells more than just the time). In this case, the complication is the “chronograph” function, which is essentially a fancy watch term for stop watch. You may not be Steve McQueen racing in Le Mans, but you’ll have all the tech he needed on his wrist for it.
The Best Colored-Dial Seiko Dress Watch: Seiko Cocktail Time Presage
Seiko
Cocktail Time Presage
Okay, let’s say you took my advice and bought the classic Presage mentioned above. And now you’re hooked on dressier watches, but want something with a little more spark. Let me point you towards a Presage with a color dial. I love this sunburst pop of blue, and not just because I’m partial to any color that resembles my favorite Gatorade flavor. It adds just the right amount of je ne sais quoi to be an excellent ice breaker at your next work event.
The Best Leather-Strap Seiko: Seiko Prospex Alpinist
Most of the watches on this list are bracelet watches. Sue me! But I do have a soft spot for leather-strapped watches, like this Prospex ‘Alpinist’, whose name suggests that its ideal wearer is a Swiss mountain climber hunk. After all, we’ve all got our personal mountains to climb, whether that’s Zermatt or getting through a wholesome first date in the park. Am I projecting here? Anyway, best to approach all your summits prepared with a solid timepiece like the stylish, understated automatic, luminescent, water-resistant Alpinist.
The Best Seiko Ladies’ Watch (For Guys): SEIKO SWR066
I’ve saved the best for last – a ladies’ watch! If you’re a man, the coolest thing you can do right now is to wear a tiny watch designed for women. They’re fun, versatile, fun to stack… And all the it-boys are doing it (including GQ’s own Gerald Ortiz). If you can’t beat em, join em.